The swamp was the place to be. It was where all the whitetails came from, retreated to, and felt safe enough to move in daylight in the high-pressure public-land area I was hunting. But as I clanged my way awkwardly through brush and mud with an old lock-on stand and bulky climbing sticks, I realized that I had the wrong tools for the job. And it was costing me opportunities.
What I needed was a system that was extremely light, mobile, and versatile—and that’s when I started exploring saddle hunting. For anyone wanting to test the mobile-hunting waters, it’s important to understand that there is a steep learning curve. It took me months to get the basics and years to fine-tune my saddle-hunting game. If you want to go mobile this fall, summer is a good time to start. Here’s what you need to know for taking the plunge into saddle hunting right now—when most are preoccupied throwing poppers for bass and roasting smores—so when fall arrives you can hang from a tree with confidence.
Is Saddle Hunting Right for You?
Used by arborists and linemen long before hunters, this tree-climbing method was created with safety in mind. If done correctly, you’re always attached to the tree. But it’s not safer than a good lifeline, safety harness, and ladder stand. And it’s not any quicker than properly setting a small hang-and-hunt lock-on. In fact, my favorite setup is still a tree stand that’s well concealed, set months in advance, that I can just walk in and hunt and leave when done. So, it begs the question: Is a saddle the best hunting tool for you? To help you decide, here is a breakdown of the situations when it makes sense to grab a saddle and when it doesn’t.
When to Use a Saddle Over Pre-Set Stands and Blinds
When hunting odd-shaped trees is necessary for being in the right spot
When shooting around the backside of a tree is needed
When there’s inadequate cover (saddle hunting allows hiding behind the tree)
When you want to hunt dozens of locations with minimal gear
When scouting or hunting new areas where you can’t prepare trees
In high-pressure areas where you need to constantly move to stay on deer
When you’re concerned with theft (saddle gear is removed each time you hunt)
When you don’t want other hunters knowing your hunting locations
For hard-to-access areas where minimal gear opens the opportunity to hunt it
When Not to Use Over Pre-Set Stands or Blinds
When you can pre-set a stand or blind months ahead of time in a quality location
When deer travel patterns necessitate a quick entry or exit. Setting up or tearing down a saddle system is extra effort, potential noise, and done at times when deer are most active, potentially spooking them.
When all day sits are required, as saddles can be less comfortable than stands or blinds
When sitting on the ground allows for the best shot opportunity or least intrusive access.
If a fair number of the items on the first list apply to you, then getting and learning how to use a tree saddle is probably a good idea and a worthwhile investment. Here’s the gear you’ll need.
Saddle Hunting Gear: The Basics
A tree saddle itself may be just one piece of equipment, but saddle hunting requires an entire system of gear items that you need to familiarize yourself with, practice with, and get dialed in for them to work effectively and safely. My goal is to be able to use all components with confidence—in the dark, 20 feet up a tree. Here is a list of the basics you need to both own and master.
1. Climbing System
For getting to hunting height, I prefer climbing sticks with aiders (loops added to get another step from each stick). Usually 3 to 4 of these can get you to a 20-foot hunting height and make fairly quick work of the climb. Another option is strap-on or screw-in steps, which require many more (10 to 12 at least). A third option is the single-rope technique (SRT). Here you prep trees by throwing a line over a limb, then you use a climbing rope to belay yourself up and down.
2. Saddle & Accessories
There are many good saddle companies. Do your research and choose one that will be comfortable for you. Outdoor shows and expos usually have manufacturer booths where you can try saddle systems before buying. I personally prefer saddles with minimal buckles and carabiners, as metal adds weight and can make noise. Each saddle kit needs to include a linemans’ belt that allows you to be hands free as you climb, and a tether—the main lifeline you strap to the tree that holds your weight as you hunt. These are ropes typically kept in pouches attached to the sides of saddles. The pouches also serve as compartments to store other needed gear—like a hook or strap to hold your bow and backpack in the tree.
3. Standing System
Some of your weight is supported by the saddle, and some by your feet, so it’s important to have a good method for standing comfortably. One of the main benefits of a saddle is maneuverability, and being able to walk around a tree to get a shot or to hide from deer, so consider this in your selection. Small platforms are the most popular, but they allow little movement around the tree. A ring of steps, either strap-on or screw-in, allows 360 degree movement around the tree, allowing you more shot angles and the ability to use the tree trunk as cover. Putting in permanent steps is an option on private land, but for public land, all items need to be strapped on. Consider this when deciding on a standing method.
4. Bow Rope
A standard rope with a clip works fine, or (my choice) a paracord with a heavy rubber-wire twist-tie on the end. This does the trick to haul up your bow and return it to the ground efficiently and silently. Tie one end to your saddle, and retrieve your bow when ready to hunt.
5. Bow & Gear Holders
Depending on whether you’re hunting private or public land, there are several options to secure your gear on the tree while hunting. If you’re hunting public land and screw-in gear holders are not allowed, there are strap options available that go around the tree and have hooks for your bow and backpack. Where allowed, small gear hooks are the easy way to go and can be easily kept in your saddle pouches.
6. Backpack
Buying a quality, saddle-specific backpack that will hold your climbing system, standing system, and all other gear is an important consideration. Not just any backpack will do. For example, if a platform and sticks are chosen, specific straps are needed to effectively secure these. Most saddle manufacturers offer good options that pair well with their products, which is better than trying to rig a generic backpack.
7. Boots
Don’t overlook quality footwear, as your boots will bear the brunt of your weight. I prefer rubber boots for scent-control reasons, but whatever your choice, look for thick soles and hard shanks, which will make for a more comfortable saddle hunting.
Once you have the basics, you can make modifications or add items to simplify, soundproof, and streamline your process. Notice in pictures my hook for carrying my platform up the tree – on rear of saddle, rope modifications on sticks to remove the weight of a buckle, paracord loop on the sides of my saddle to hold sticks while climbing, knee pads for comfort, and soundproofing wrap on climbing sticks.
How to Get Ready for Your First Season of Saddle Hunting
Summer prep boils down to testing your new system and using it in hunt-like situations. This includes climbing trees, setting your standing method, shooting from various positions, and establishing your order of operations both up and down the tree. I suggest starting at about 3 feet off the ground and going through your system there to work out kinks. Get comfortable with how it feels and practice moving around the tree and taking shots from different positions.
Certain shots require new coordinations and need to be dialed in. A strong-side shot, in which you shoot with the tree trunk on your strong or dominant side (right side for right-handed shootings) comes fairly naturally. But a weak-side shot requires you to walk around to the other side of the tree, or to turn under the tether so your back is against the tree. For most hunters, it’s a move that requires extra practice.
Once you’re comfortable at the 3-foot height, practice using your climbing method to get to hunting height and get ready to hunt in one fluid motion. This is where repetition will help you figure the least amount of movements required to set all your sticks, lock in your standing system, get tethered in, secure your backpack and bow, all while only scaling the tree just once. Pay special attention to the order in which you perform these tasks and pack items in your backpack accordingly. Eliminate unnecessary movements and those that seem awkward until you can perform your new skill on autopilot.
A mistake of many new and even some established mobile hunters make is the tendency to wing it. Just because you have a mobile system does not mean you should not prep locations if possible. Although spring is the best time—before bugs and leaves emerge—summer still allows time to find and prep trees so when the opener arrives, you have dozens of options in various hunting locations ready to go.
Prepping involves picking the right tree based on previous sign and scouting intel, trimming adequate shooting lanes where allowed, and making a dry run up the tree to make sure everything will work properly. It also includes clearing brush at the base of the tree for a working space as you unpack and get set to climb, and making sure there is a limb-free path to haul your bow to the top so you can do all these things quickly and in complete silence. Get started now and by fall you’ll not just be ready to go mobile; you’ll be ready to saddle up and actually tag a buck.
THE 1871 CLUB
